France

Clos Fourtet

Clos Fourtet Premier Grand Cru Classe B Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

Bordeaux

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

The 2023 Clos Fourtet is deep garnet-purple in color. It requires quite a lot of swirling to coax out fragrant notes of redcurrant jelly, kirsch, wild blueberries, and violets followed by hints of cinnamon stick, star anise, cumin seed, and fallen leaves. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers intense, vibrant red berry and baking spice flavors, supported by fine-grained tannins and jaw-dropping tension, finishing with great length and poise. This is a real head-turner. The blend is 87% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, with pH 3.50.

by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW

Mathieu Cuvelier marks 20 years of the Cuvelier family at Clos Fourtet with this vintage, and it's a wonderful attestation to the potential of limestone plateau location for coping with a changing climate in Bordeaux. Visually arresting in its deep plum and violet colour, with a luscious texture, and plenty of subtle red roses and peony floral aromatics. Creamy black and blue fruits, and sublimely well measured tannic extraction, with crunchy salinity on the finish, oyster shell and salt-flecked chocolate notes. Super smooth finish. First year with the addition of Les Grandes Murailles vineyard. Stéphane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants (working together since 2009). Not too interventionist, no cold soaks here, natural yeasts, with whole bunch ferments for the young vines. Harvest September 9 to 27. 3.54ph. 40% new oak, 58% second-fill barrels, 2% amphoras.

Inside Bordeaux

The skill and class of this estate has come through more strongly after ageing, and this is a single point upscore. Very much on the savoury sudued side at this point, but there is beautiful finesse and a kick of oyster shell salinity. Austere still, but the floral aromatics give extra depths. A reasonable yield of 40hl/h (normal for the property) as its location again protected from frost. Clay-limestone soils. 50% new oak, 2% amphoras, saignée (for added concentration) on 20% of the vats.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2020 Clos Fourtet is a little closed to begin, starting off with cedar and crushed rocks notions before scents of black cherry compote, wild blueberries, and dark chocolate emerge, plus suggestions of violets and licorice. The full-bodied palate is packed with tightly wound, muscular black fruits, supported by ripe, fine-grained tannins and bold freshness, finishing long and mineral-laced. The blend is 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Cabernet Franc.

20ha of prime St Emilion limestone, punching at the very top of its game. This is muscular, less exuberant than the exceptional 2018 but this is still easily one of the wines of the vintage, salinity and austerity but creamy in texture, with pure, well chiselled blueberry, blackberry and raspberry fruits with peony flowers on the finish. Biodynamic farming, but not certified. 38hl/h yield. 50% new oak, 2% amphoras.

Owned by Mathieu Cuvelier, located right on the central limestone plateau of the medieval village of St Emilion. Ruby red in colour, the rough slate texture hits you right off the bat, landing you straight in limestone territory. As it inches forward through the palate, you get juicy raspberry, concentrated cassis fruit pastille, spiced plum, grilled almonds and tobacco leaf, with curls of woodsmoke and flint. There is a generosity that is already apparent, and this is exceptionally good quality, but needs another few years in bottle. A yield of 33hl/ha. 60% new oak.

Still young, austere on the opening, with gorgeous freshness, violet flowers and edges of creamy grilled caramel. The acidity comes in waves, and the tight tannins suggest this has a long life but needs a few more years to really open up and let the red fruits out. This was a frost year, with Clos Fourtet suffering a 20% loss, and the areas that were untouched were pretty much pure limestone, which explains both the austerity, and the stunning mouthwatering finish. 32hl/h yield. 60% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants, delivering one of the wines of the vintage in St Emilion.

Huge depth of colour, this delivers aromatics to dive right into, packed with violet flowers and baked fruit. The tannic structure remains young and very much in control, with edges of austerity, cradling the fruit, but once you wade through the first few moments, things relax to show creamy raspberry, black cherry and damson, with cocoa bean, espresso, sandalwood, incense, tobacco leaf. Pretty closed down at the moment, great lift on the finish and the sappy saline character, with an eucaluyptus, from ripe Merlot on limestone, just a beautiful wine that you will want to share, but give it time. 60% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

This feels exuberantly young, with ripe fleshy damson and blackberry fruits, balanced by a measured slow-build of acidity, giving precision and restraint. Touch of smoked caramel, even a flash of crème de cassis heat, set against oyster shell and saffran, and the complex interplay of flavour and texture that makes Clos Fourtet such an exceptional wine. 60% new oak, Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

Young and structured, with fine tannins are are fully in control, this remains pretty serious in its construction as it ticks on towards the 10 year mark. Black cherry and damson fruit, orange zest, pomegranate, slate, dried roses, a sombre but exceptionally well structured and finessed Clos Fourtet, full of promise. 60% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

Soft rose-petal pink, less intensity than the more celebrated vintages but this is also where the impact of the limestone terroir really comes in use, as it gives a subtle and distinct oyster-shell salinity that adds interest and poise. Ready to drink but still very much in its window, this is really a 2013 to look out for, full of pleasure, with soft tannins, raspberry puree fruit, with roses and cold ash coming in waves on the finish. Very pretty, one to allow yourself to be surprised by. 60% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

An opening punch of clove and turmeric spice, this is gourmet and enticing, with velvety tannins that are softly layered upon each other, buidling slowly through the palate to cradle the fruit. Waves of grilled cedar, campfire smoke, black cherry conserve, salted cracker and oyster shell salinity, moreish and irresistable. Beginning to melt and show its gentle side, this is great to drink now with a carafe, but can wait. 60% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

Deep ruby colour, this was a dry but relatively cool vintage, and right now it is exuding class and balance. The tannins are beginning to fully soften and melt into the structure, releasing campfire smoke, tobacco, saffran and red cherries, all buoyed up by still-fresh acidites. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants. 80% new oak, Mathieu Cuvelier owner.

Lovely deep plum colour, vivid violet reflections, this delivers exactly what you want from a 2010 - with clarity of blackberry and bilberry fruit, waves of fresher pomegranate and juicy greengage, a ton of liquorice, fennel and gunsmoke, taut with tension and precisely-cut tannins. Exceptional quality. 80% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

A little reserved on the nose at first, you have to seach for this one, but it is there once the tannins roll back. Another of the classic Bordeaux vintages, with black cherry and raspberry fruit, packed with black pepper spice, soy and searing oyster shell that is such a delicious signature of these limestone soils. Tertiary character beginning to assert itself, the tannins are still giving plenty of structure and support, but the emphasis is spice, tobacco and woodsmoke over fruit. 80% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

Engaging and vibrant in its soft plum character. Expect waves of raspberry, red cherry, tobacco, black olive, white pepper, soot, campfire, all curling up out of the glass. A great quality wine, gentle and welcoming, and full of estate signature. This was tasted a good 12 hours after opening, and yet it was still full of life - a great sign that this has a long life ahead of it. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants. 80% new oak, Mathieu Cuvelier owner.

Concentrated and intense from the first moment, the aromatics spiral out of the glass with incense, sandalwood, camphor, fennel, anis, liqourice, smoked earth. The impact from the smoked oak is still pretty evident even now, a reflection of the winemaking style at the time, but this is stunning and filled with complex layers of raspberry puree, pomegrante, cocoa bean and espresso. Hard to resist. 100% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

Waves of fragrant violet and peony flowers on the nose, along with tobacco leaf, roses and ecualyptus. This is a classic vintage but don't underestimate just how delicious it is, with the fruit is still pretty dark and intense, cassis and crushed raspberry, with edges of bitter cocoa bean, soy, turmeric and black pepper spice. The tannins at this point are fully integrated, flirting with opening up and allowing the fruit to flood the palate. 100% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

The arrival of the heat wave in 2003 was more abrupt and prolonged than in 2022 (although less dry), and you feel the exoticism to the baked spices, incense, truffle, tar, softening at this point with grilled cedar smoke, cured leather and smoked meat. Everything is underpinned by the salinity of the limestone, showcasing the benefit of the location, and the barely-there tannins are melted into the structure. Slap-bang in its drinking window, no need to wait any longer to enjoy. 100% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

2001 was the first vintage under the Cuvelier family, and at 22 years old this still retains a deep rose-red colour, and the most stunning nose, with aromatics of crushed rose petals, white truffles, leather and soot. The fruit character remains intense, raspberry and redcurrant of a cooler, finessed vintage, heading to sweet fragrant wild strawberry as it opens, with touches of walnut and nutmeg spice. So alive, and so moreish, superb. Tony Ballu remained as winemaker with the change of owners, as he had been since replacing Pierre Lurton here in 1991, 100% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

2023	No priceNot available	Extraordinary
2022	No priceNot available	Extraordinary
2021	No priceNot available	Outstanding
2020	No priceNot available	Extraordinary
2019	No priceNot available	Extraordinary

Category	Red wine
Vinmonopolet no.
Producer	Clos Fourtet
Vintages	1972
Country	France, Bordeaux, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
Bottle	75 cl

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