France

Cabernet Sauvignon

Merlot

Cabernet Franc

Chateau Durfort-Vivens

Chateau Durfort-Vivens 2eme Cru Classe Margaux

Bordeaux

Margaux

You’ll find several Cabernet-dominant blends in classified Médoc estates in 2021, like this near-100% example (97%, with a slice of Merlot that was affected by both fruit set and frost). It translates into an attractive deep plum colour, with violet reflections, and a purity to the blueberry and raspberry fruits, far removed from the solar aromatics we have got used to. Cool vintage signatures abound with undergrowth and liqourice bud, and similarities to good vintages of the 1980s in terms of balance and tannic frame. I have been a huge fan of Durfort in recent years, and this has plenty of potential for ageing. Plenty of adapting in the vineyard to achieve this result, including leaving grass and cereal cover throughout to increase water stress. Eric Boissenot consultant. 35hl/h yield. Harvest September 24 harvest to October 21 (later even than the 2010). 70% new oak and the rest amphoras.

Inside Bordeaux

Lovely deep plum colour, this is very high Cabernet Sauvignon but this is an estate where they often goes high, (2021 vintage was even higher than this at 97%). Savoury, slim, floral, precise and vivid, salinity, grip, lovely sense of lift and grip.  3.75 pH. Harvest 23 September to 8 October. 37 hl/ha. 70% new oak, 30% in amphora.

Wonderfully fragrant aromatics that climb through the palate, this has the juice and power that 2023 does so well in the right hads, majoring on squid ink and cassis, with clear expansion through the palate, liqourice, sage, saffron, pomegrante, orange zest and salt-scrape. Harvest September 11 to October 4, 35hl/h yield, 3.66ph, 66% new oak, 33% amphoras for ageing. Right up there with the best of Margaux.

Great balance, this has the spice and exoticism of the vintage, with pomegranate, cardamom and turmeric spice, along with creamy cappuccino and damson fruits. Feels effortless and balanced, step by step building in juice, enjoyment and pleasure. It's ripe and concentrated, with the structure for long ageing. 30hl/h. Owned by Gonzague Lurton, owner also of Acaibo in Sonoma, which has had its own challenges in terms of extreme temperatures. 70% new oak, 30% amphora for ageing. Harvest from September 1 to October 12, got to be one of the longest in terms of red grapes picking in the vintage.

Beautiful depth and character of fruit here, understated power, lilac, peony, wet stones, blackcurrant, slate tannins, edges of oyster shell and rosemary spice. This has density without weight. Showcases the seriousness of the vintage, with its wall of tannins, but they have become more supple over ageing. Excellent wine, an upscore from En Primeur. 40% of production in the Grand Vin (this has been brought down significantly with the arrival of the plot-focused wines from the 2019 vintage, as before owner Gonzargue Lurton was regularly producing 70% Grand Vin). 66% new oak, with the rest aged in amphora, 3.65ph.

Hard not to be impressed by the balance on display here, with plenty of graphite and crushed stones, savoury blueberry and cassis fruits, and a kick of rosemary, gunpowder tea and eucalyptus on the finish. This really showcases the concentration and freshness that is a mark of the vintage in Margaux. 66% new oak, and the rest in amphoras. An upscore from En Primeur.

Another unusual 2018 that is worth adding to your collection, because if you love wines with a sense of place, there is an added sense of appreciation that each one tells the story of a particular vintage. Just so concentrated, reflective of its tiny yield that barely strayed past 10hl/h (due to mildew, as with the also-biodynamic Ch Palmer in the same vintage). The tannins, although dense, are silky and supple, and the blackberry and fig fruits keep a sense of elasticity and juice. 100% fermented in amphoras, with 70% of the wine moved into new oak barrels after malolactic fermentation for ageing, the other 30% staying in the amphorae. Only available to buy in cases of 3 bottles because there were only 6,000 bottles in total. If you are able to find, set it aside for a few years, and then revel in its pleasures. Winemaker Léopold Valentin, alongside owner Gonzague Lurton.

Lyse plommer, syrlige solbær, sedertre, tobakk, sigarboks, eik, vanilje, trøffel. Veldig fremtredende og tilgjengelig på duft. 

Smak av syrlige plommer, lyse bjørnebær, tobakk og noe eik. Høy konsentrasjon med tette tanniner. 

93+p.

Bx messe.

Category	Red wine
Vinmonopolet no.
Producer	Chateau Durfort-Vivens
Vintages	2021
Country	France, Bordeaux, Margaux
Bottle	75 cl

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Sugar	g/l

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